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Free Crochet Pattern
“Little Giver”
“Little Giver”
Hi there! Let’s crochet this cute little Gift Box guy together. The box can be opened to place a small surprise, such as jewelry, candy or a small toy, inside.
Before we get started,
I'd love for you to take a look at my Christmas collection of detailed patterns!
Crochet pattern “Elfie & Little Reindeer”
Crochet pattern “Tiny Scandinavian gnome”
Crochet pattern “Cuddly geese”
$4.10
$2.87
$4.90
Material and Tools:
- Thin cotton yarn in two colors: orange and green. My yarn weight is 870 g per 100 m. You can also use thin sewing thread. The thinner the thread, the smaller the toy will be, and vice versa.
- Crochet hook 0.75 mm [US Steel Crochet Hook Size14/10]
- Sturdy watercolor paper or thin cardstock
- Wire, 0.3 mm diameter, about 30 cm [11.8 in] long
- Glue gel, “Moment” brand super glue
- Thin sturdy needle for sewing parts together
- Sharp mail scissors, round-nose pliers
- Needles for sewing parts together and for embroidery
- About 15 cm [5.9 in] black Iris crochet thread and black sewing thread for embroidering some of the embellishments
- Watercolor paint or dry pastel chalk and a brush for blushing
- 1 T-splint and 2 discs, 6 mm [0.24 in] diameter
- Green satin ribbon, 4 mm [0.16 in]
- Awl or thin closed scissors for widening the gap between stitches
Abbreviations:
- sc – single crochet
- inc – increase (crochet 2 sc in one stitch)
- dec – decrease. PLEASE NOTE! Skip 1 st to decrease if you crochet from embroidery floss, as it is easier than working 2 sts together.
- together.
- mr – amigurumi/magic ring
- ch – chain stitch
- sl-st – slip stitch
At the beginning of each part is listed which way the part is to be worked. If nothing is mentioned, all parts will be crocheted as a continuous spiral, without joining to the beginning of the round.
If you want to learn more about the technique of joining to the beginning of the round and using height-adjusting chains, please refer to YouTube. This pattern does not teach you the basics of crocheting, it is assumed that you are already familiar with them.
If you want to learn more about the technique of joining to the beginning of the round and using height-adjusting chains, please refer to YouTube. This pattern does not teach you the basics of crocheting, it is assumed that you are already familiar with them.
🎁 Lid. WORKED WITH JOINING TO THE BEGINNING OF THE ROUND, NOT IN SPIRAL ROUNDS! Worked with the wrong side out!
1. 5 sc into an AMR, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (6) Here, I would like to include a little explanation. The slip stitch for joining is considered (and counted as) an additional stitch, meaning the second round starts (after the chain) into the first sc of the first round.
2. ch1 for height adjustment, 1 sc, 5 inc, join with a sl-st to the beginning of the round (12)
3. ch1 for height adjustment, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) * 5 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (18)
4. ch1 for height adjustment, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) * 8 times, join with a sl-st to the beginning of the round (27)
5. ch1 for height adjustment, 3 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) * 8 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (36)
6. ch1 for height adjustment, 4 sc, (1 inc, 3 sc) * 8 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (45)
7. ch1 for height adjustment, 5 sc, (1 inc, 4 sc) * 8 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (54)
8. working through the front loop of the stitches only: ch1 for height adjustment, 54 sc, joining to the beginning of the round while working the last sc.
Rounds 9, 10 and 11 are worked as Round 8, but through both loops of the stitch.
After Round 11 has been completed, break the working yarn, and hide the end.
2. ch1 for height adjustment, 1 sc, 5 inc, join with a sl-st to the beginning of the round (12)
3. ch1 for height adjustment, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) * 5 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (18)
4. ch1 for height adjustment, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) * 8 times, join with a sl-st to the beginning of the round (27)
5. ch1 for height adjustment, 3 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) * 8 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (36)
6. ch1 for height adjustment, 4 sc, (1 inc, 3 sc) * 8 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (45)
7. ch1 for height adjustment, 5 sc, (1 inc, 4 sc) * 8 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (54)
8. working through the front loop of the stitches only: ch1 for height adjustment, 54 sc, joining to the beginning of the round while working the last sc.
Rounds 9, 10 and 11 are worked as Round 8, but through both loops of the stitch.
After Round 11 has been completed, break the working yarn, and hide the end.
🎁 Bottom part of box, in color White.
WORKED WITH JOINING TO THE BEGINNING OF THE ROUND, NOT INSPIRAL ROUNDS! Worked with the wrong side out!
1. 5 sc into an AMR, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (6)
2. Working dc’s: ch2 for height adjustment, 1 dc, 5 inc, join with a sl-st to the beginning of the round (12)
3. Working sc’s: ch1 for height adjustment, 1 sc, 11 inc, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round. (24)
4. Working dc’s: ch2 for height adjustment, 3 dc, (1 inc, 2 dc) * 7 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round. (32)
5. Continue working sc’s: ch1 for height adjustment, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) *15 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (48) Should the bottom not lay flat, steam-iron it until it does.
6. Working through the front loop of the stitches only: ch1, 48 sc, joining to the beginning of the round while working the last sc.
7. In this round, no chain for height adjustment will be worked; continue in a spiral, without joining to the beginning of the round, and work 48 sc
Work the same way up to Round 17 (a total of 12 rounds).
In Round 17, work 2 sl-st, break the working yarn, and hide the end.
2. Working dc’s: ch2 for height adjustment, 1 dc, 5 inc, join with a sl-st to the beginning of the round (12)
3. Working sc’s: ch1 for height adjustment, 1 sc, 11 inc, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round. (24)
4. Working dc’s: ch2 for height adjustment, 3 dc, (1 inc, 2 dc) * 7 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round. (32)
5. Continue working sc’s: ch1 for height adjustment, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) *15 times, 1 sl-st, join to the beginning of the round (48) Should the bottom not lay flat, steam-iron it until it does.
6. Working through the front loop of the stitches only: ch1, 48 sc, joining to the beginning of the round while working the last sc.
7. In this round, no chain for height adjustment will be worked; continue in a spiral, without joining to the beginning of the round, and work 48 sc
Work the same way up to Round 17 (a total of 12 rounds).
In Round 17, work 2 sl-st, break the working yarn, and hide the end.
Use a piece of auxiliary thread to divide the head into 4 sections, in one of them, the eyes will be embroidered. For the eye, first make a horizontal stitch, using black Iris. To give it a bow shape, do not pull the stitch taut. Using black sewing thread held double, embroider two eyelashes. Repeat the steps for the other eye. Fixate the eyes with a small drop of glue each. Embroider the nose, and blush the cheeks. Remove the auxiliary thread from dividing the head into sections.
From sturdy paper, cut out two circles, one for the bottom and one for the lid of the box.
Cut out a paper rectangle the same width as the height of the crocheted box, and 1 cm [0.4 in] longer than the circumference of the crocheted bottom circle.
Thread the disc onto the t-splint, and insert this assembly through the center of the crocheted bottom circle, after having widened the gap in the center with an awl or closed thin scissors.
Insert the splint with the attached crocheted bottom into the AMR of the box. Roll up the paper rectangle into a cylinder shape, and glue it to the insides of the crocheted box. Insert and glue the paper circle to the inside of the crocheted lid the same way.
Place the lid on the box, and tie ribbon around the box as shown.
Cut out a paper rectangle the same width as the height of the crocheted box, and 1 cm [0.4 in] longer than the circumference of the crocheted bottom circle.
Thread the disc onto the t-splint, and insert this assembly through the center of the crocheted bottom circle, after having widened the gap in the center with an awl or closed thin scissors.
Insert the splint with the attached crocheted bottom into the AMR of the box. Roll up the paper rectangle into a cylinder shape, and glue it to the insides of the crocheted box. Insert and glue the paper circle to the inside of the crocheted lid the same way.
Place the lid on the box, and tie ribbon around the box as shown.
🎁 Begin crocheting the body in color Green, in regular spiral rounds:
1. 6 sc into an AMR (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 times (18)
4. and 5. 18 sc, at this point, insert the splint to the AMR of the body, thread the disc onto it, and curl the ends of the splint back, using round-nose pliers. See photo on next page. The technique of using cotter pin joints to attach parts is explained in this video.
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, 1 inc) * 6 times (18)
4. and 5. 18 sc, at this point, insert the splint to the AMR of the body, thread the disc onto it, and curl the ends of the splint back, using round-nose pliers. See photo on next page. The technique of using cotter pin joints to attach parts is explained in this video.
6. (1 sc, 2 inc) * 6 times (24)
7. and 8. 24 sc
9. (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 times (30)
10., 11. and 12. 30 sc
13. (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 times (36)
14. 36 sc
15. (4 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (30)
16. (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (24)
17. (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (18)
18. (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (12), stuff the body firmly
19. Work 6 decreases, then finish work on this piece.
7. and 8. 24 sc
9. (3 sc, 1 inc) * 6 times (30)
10., 11. and 12. 30 sc
13. (4 sc, 1 inc) * 6 times (36)
14. 36 sc
15. (4 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (30)
16. (3 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (24)
17. (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (18)
18. (1 sc, 1 dec) * 6 times (12), stuff the body firmly
19. Work 6 decreases, then finish work on this piece.
🎁 Work the arms, make 2 of them, beginning in color White:
1. 6 sc into an AMR
2. (2 inc, 1 sc) * 2 times (10)
3. and 4. Work 10 sc each per round, then change color to Green.
5. 10 sc
6. inc, 9 sc (11)
Rounds 7 through 10. In every round, work 11 sc per round. Fold a piece of wire 3–4 times, then insert it into the arm.
11. sc, 5 dec. Close the remaining hole. Exit the yarn tail 2 rounds below the end of work.
2. (2 inc, 1 sc) * 2 times (10)
3. and 4. Work 10 sc each per round, then change color to Green.
5. 10 sc
6. inc, 9 sc (11)
Rounds 7 through 10. In every round, work 11 sc per round. Fold a piece of wire 3–4 times, then insert it into the arm.
11. sc, 5 dec. Close the remaining hole. Exit the yarn tail 2 rounds below the end of work.
🎁 Legs, make 2 of them, beginning in color White:
1. ch5, into the 2nd chain from the hook, work an inc, then 2 sc, into the next stitch, work 3 sc, and and into the remaining 3 sts, 1 sc each, this yielded 10 sc (10)
2. 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (14)
3. 14 sc
4. 4 sc, 5 dec (9), begin stuffing the leg.
5. 9 sc, change color to Green.
6. and 7. Work 9 sc each.
8. (2 sc, 1 inc) * 3 times (12)
9. (3 sc, 1 inc) * 3 times (15)
10. and 11. Work 15 sc each.
12. (3 sc, 1 dec) * 3 times (12), stuff the leg to the end
13. 6 dec, close the remaining hole. Exit the yarn tail 2 rounds below the end of work.
2. 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (14)
3. 14 sc
4. 4 sc, 5 dec (9), begin stuffing the leg.
5. 9 sc, change color to Green.
6. and 7. Work 9 sc each.
8. (2 sc, 1 inc) * 3 times (12)
9. (3 sc, 1 inc) * 3 times (15)
10. and 11. Work 15 sc each.
12. (3 sc, 1 dec) * 3 times (12), stuff the leg to the end
13. 6 dec, close the remaining hole. Exit the yarn tail 2 rounds below the end of work.
Join the arms and legs to the body of the Little Giver, using the thread joint method. See this method explained in this video.
Using Iris in color White, embroider two French Knots on the chest as buttons.
Using Iris in color White, embroider two French Knots on the chest as buttons.
🎁 Your little toy is finished! Place a little surprise into the box, and give it to a loved one! I hope you enjoyed this pattern! ❤️ Feel free to share the link with your friends so they can crochet these cute gifts too.
P.S. My paid patterns are even more detailed, and I'm always here to help you at any stage of your project!
P.S. My paid patterns are even more detailed, and I'm always here to help you at any stage of your project!
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